Ten years ago, I traded my smartphone for a 3D printer. It was clunky and needed constant tinkering, but I was hooked. What started as hours of trial and error soon turned into a side hustle selling my own designs on Etsy. Since then, I’ve tested nearly 100 machines, from budget-friendly beginner 3D printers to high-end machines built for professionals, and I still get a thrill every time I see a fresh print come to life. 3D printing has come a long way. It is no longer just a hobby for tech enthusiasts. It is now a powerful tool for artists, makers and creators of all kinds. Whether you want to make cosplay props, tabletop miniatures or functional prototypes, the right printer can bring your ideas to life in ways you never imagined.
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- The Best 3D Printers of 2025 Are Better Than Any I’ve Seen in the Last Decade, No Contest
- Which 3D printer is the best?
- Best overall 3D printer
- Best 3D printer for accuracy
- Best budget 3D printer
- Best 3D printer for beginners
- Best 3D printer for quality
- Best resin 3D printer overall
- Best 3D printer for big projects
- Best 3D printer for educators
- Best 3D printer for miniatures
- What to consider before buying a 3D printer
- How we test 3D printers
- 3D printer FAQs
With so many options out there, picking the right machine can feel overwhelming. That is why I put together this guide. Based on years of hands-on testing, I’ve rounded up the best 3D printers you can buy in 2025. I focused on what really matters, like print quality, speed and ease of use, but I also looked at the little things that can make or break the experience, like build plate size, material costs and print head design.
No matter your skill level or budget, this guide will help you find a printer that fits your needs and inspires your next big idea. Let’s dive in.
Which 3D printer is the best?
I've spent almost a decade and countless hours testing 3D printers in as many ways as possible to bring you the best 3D printers in every class. Right now, the Bambu Lab A1 Combo is my frontrunner: It's fast, can produce excellent detail and it's well priced at $699. It also comes with an excellent color system, allowing you to print in four different colors.
These models by Fotis Mint are extremely detailed.
James Bricknell/CNET
Pros
- The setup is completely flawless with detailed installation guidelines
- The Bambu Handy app makes monitoring and even printing a breeze
- The print quality is excellent and the CNET test print was almost perfect
Cons
- Filament waste could be an issue over time if not properly calibrated
- The “poop flinger” is not good design and will need constant vigilance to keep clear
What I like:
I rarely find a product that impresses me, but the A1 Combo left me genuinely amazed with its performance and value. This 3D printer is excellent, with fast, quality printing at a great price. Adding the AMS Lite elevates it to the best printer you can buy right now. Plus, its four-color printing for less than $700 is such a good deal; I'm still baffled by how the company pulls off that pricing.
The CNET test print from the A1 is nearly perfect. Only the Prusa Mk4s and Core One have managed to beat it overall. The overhangs were excellent, showing that the cooling on the A1 is working well, even at high speeds. It was also able to remove all four of the 3D printed sticks used to test tolerance, though the 0.2mm stick took some wiggling to come free.
There is a lot more that I can say about this machine, most of which can be read about in my A1 Combo review, but the most important part of it is how simple it is to use. From opening the box to printing my first quality print took minutes, and it continues to produce fantastic models months after my first try. The A1 creates a lot of waste when printing in color, but that is not a good reason not to buy this machine. Whether it's your first printer or another one for your collection, the A1 Combo is the number one printer to buy right now.
Who should get it:
There are very few people that the A1 combo isn't good for. I would especially point anyone who is new to 3D printing or wants to get started and doesn't know how. This is it. This is the place to start. You won't be disappointed.
Who should avoid it:
If you already have a 3D printer or two, you likely don't need the A1 Combo unless you are looking to break into color printing. If you're already using a different style of machine, like a CoreXY, then you'll be better off sticking to that.
Pros
- The most accurate home 3D printer I have used in a long time, even at speed
- The cooling system is so good that even 70-degree overhangs look fantastic
- Prusa's integrated app and EasyPrint software make printing an absolute breeze
Cons
- The camera is still an optional extra, and it shouldn't be at this price point
- The build area is a little small for a printer of this size and caliber.
What I like:
The Core One is a CoreXY machine and Prusa's answer to the X1C from Bambu Lab. It is a fantastic 3D printer in almost every way, capable of incredible accuracy and speed. I have spent hours printing as many different things as I can, and every single model I printed came out exactly as I expected it to. The new extruder works very well to make sure the amount of filament is precise, while the part fan helps cool the material to stop shrinkage that may change the accuracy. I especially like the air system within the enclosure as it works to optimize the chamber for the type of material you're using. Because of this, you don't need to leave the door hanging open to print PLA; the Core One controls the airflow to make sure it doesn't get too hot.
My CNET test print for the Core One is the best one I have ever seen, full stop. The overhangs look amazing up to 70 degrees, and the bridging showed almost no sagging across any of the distances. The spires were clean and pointy -- that's kind of the point of a spire -- and the dimensional accuracy was perfect to within 0.01mm across the model. Even when I printed a 3D scan of myself, where the model had several errors, the Core One handled it expertly, giving me an excellent copy of myself to sit on my shelf.
Who should get it:
The Core One is an excellent alternative to the Bambu Lab machines, and, because it is made by Prusa, it has security-first features and an upgrade path that just doesn't exist for other manufacturers. Prusa looks after its 3D printers for the long haul. If you're a tinkerer, you love open source, and you want high accuracy, the Core One is for you.
Who should avoid it:
While the Core One is ready to print straight out of the box, there are still some weird omissions. It doesn't come with a camera, though there is an optional extra, which feels like it should be standard on a machine that costs more than $1,000. If you are just starting in 3D printing and you aren't sure how much you are likely to use a 3D printer, I would suggest going for something more basic to begin.
Pros
- Fully enclosed to control temperature, making printing high-temp materials a breeze
- Large LCD display makes working on the printer easier than a lot of its contemporaries
- Color system available
Cons
- Software still has some holes in it that make it less helpful than other slicers on the market
What I like:
The Anycubic S1 has been specifically designed to compete with the Bambu Lab P1S, a midrange powerhouse and one of the best 3D printers of the last few years. It does exceptionally well for its price, making it our top choice for the best budget 3D printer of 2025. After testing with the optional ACE color system, I've little to say in terms of complaints. The only real issue is the software, as it lacks some of the core features that other slicers have. Thankfully, most 3D printers work with third-party slicers, giving you plenty of options to customize your print as you please.
The print area is a good size at 250 by 250 by 250 mm, and the enclosure allows you to print different filaments like ABS and PETG without issue. The door and removable top also help ventilate the S1 when you're printing PLA, so you get the best of both worlds. The test model for the S1 was good, but not spectacular. It failed the 0.2mm tolerance test, but so do most budget machines, and there was a little bit of stringing on the peaks, but overall, it was satisfactory for a budget machine.
Who should get it:
For anyone looking to start 3D printing and immediately wants to try printing in multiple colors, the Anycubic S1 is a great start. It's affordable and works very well for the price.
Who should avoid it:
If you're looking to print multiple materials, and not just multiple colors of the same material, you may want to look elsewhere. The ACE is not quite advanced enough to cope with that kind of printing.
Pros
- From setup to printing took less than 10 minutes
- 4-color printing on a budget is such a fun way to 3D print
- The Bambu Handy app is helpful and easy to use
- For a small printer, it's surprisingly fast with an official max print speed of 500mm/s
Cons
- Walled garden leaves no clear modification path for the tinkerers
- The AMS Lite is wobbly compared to other color systems
- Because the AMS is not attached, the entire printing system takes up a significant amount of space
What I like:
The A1 Mini Combo is an almost perfect entry to the world of color 3D printing. It's well-priced, and while the build area is small, the quality of the print -- and the fact you can print in four colors straight out of the box -- is amazing. I've spent hours using it to make cool little things for kids and having them learn what all the pieces do, too. Despite it being small and cheap, the CNET test print showed very few issues, though there was evidence of some ringing in the raised text.
Read more: A1 Mini Combo review
The Mini Combo comes with an app that makes it simple to get started and allows you to monitor the print while you're away. The software on your computer is easy to use and can be set up immediately. If you're unsure about 3D printing and want a cheap way to get started, this is the printer for you.
Who should get it:
I love the A1 Mini and would recommend it for just about everybody. If you have someone in your life that you want to get a big present, the A1 Mini is the perfect gift. I especially think it's great for children, with adult supervision, of course, as it's small, easy to use and just so much fun.
Who should avoid it:
The build area on the A1 Mini is small by design, but may be too small for a seasoned 3D printing maker. If you want something bigger, I would look at the full-size A1 instead.
Pros
- In my testing, the print quality and accuracy of the CNET test model we among the best results I've ever had
- While it isn't the fastest of the new printers, its speed is adjusted well to offer the best quality print
- The open source nature of the Mk4S and Prusa's ongoing support make it a good investment for the future
Cons
- Despite all of its pros, the Mk4S is still more expensive than I would like to see
Update: Prusa has released a new version of the Mk4, the Mk4S. It's an incremental upgrade but adds a lot of great features. It's faster -- it gets closer to that 500mm/s stated time in real life -- and the addition of an app and proper WiFi connections makes it a solid purchase for anyone.
What I like:
For nearly a decade, Prusa has dominated the market, and the Mk4 continues the trend of excellent quality and customer care. It is fast, though not the fastest, and always creates quality prints. I can count the number of print fails from MK4 on one finger, and I have been using it for months now, and like the Core One, the CNET test print is close to perfect.
The biggest draw to the Mk4/S is how much Prusa commits to its printers. The Mk4/S will see upgrades and tweaks for years to come and will use all of the open-source software and hardware that Prusa has.
Who should get it:
The Mk4S is a tinkerer's 3D printer and one that can create some of the best results you'll see in a consumer printer. If you love the mechanics of 3D printing and want to understand how they work and how you can tweak them, then the Mk4S is your best option.
Who should avoid it:
I don't think anyone should avoid the Mk4S, but it is pretty pricey, so if you are unsure of what you want to print, going for a budget option first might be the better way to go.
Read more: Prusa Mk4 Review
Pros
- Large build area allows you to print a miniature army on one run
- 150mm/s printing means it takes next to no time to print said mini army
- That same mini army will have ultra-clear details due to the 12k screen
Cons
- The lift-up lid takes up a lot of space and makes it impossible to house on a shelving rack
Update: The Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra is now the new hotness, and though I haven't managed to review it yet, I still think you would be good to buy it instead of the 3 Ultra. I am almost 100% sure that all the things the Saturn 3 Ultra does well, the 4 Ultra will do well too.
What I like:
The Elegoo Saturn 3 is an almost perfect upgrade from its predecessor, the Saturn 2. It has a bigger build area, if only by 10mm, and is much higher resolution -- 11520 x 5120 vs 7680 x 4320 on the Saturn 2 -- creating better-quality prints. It's fast, too, printing models at what feels like twice the speed you'd expect at 150 mm/hr. I can print an entire plate of D&D minis in less than an hour, which is just astounding when you think about how long that would take on an FDM printer.
As I said in my review, the 12k screen makes almost any model you print look better. The Witch King of Angmar model I printed shows each tiny pit in the rusty armor, and even 2-inch tall miniatures look crisp and clear.
Who should get it:
Resin 3D printers are for people who need prints with excellent details. Resin is best for printing tiny models like miniatures or complex models like jewelry or cosplay items, so if you're looking to make that kind of 3D print, then Saturn 3 Ultra (or the newer Saturn 4 Ultra) is the right choice.
Who should avoid it:
Resin 3D printing requires several processes to be safe, and those processes smell and are toxic. If you don't have a well-ventilated and safe area to use a resin 3D printer, then you should stay clear of the Saturn 3 Ultra. An FDM printer is much less hazardous to your health
Pros
- 400 x 400 x 400mm build area is great for printing massive models
- Great print quality at slower speeds
Cons
- Higher speeds can introduce a wobble that affects the print quality when the printer is not on solid ground
Update: Anycubic has released the Kobra 3 Max, the latest version of its Max lineup. It is completely upgraded and much faster than the Kobra 2 Max and has the same ACE color system that the S1 uses. We have spent some time with the Kobra 3 Max, but not a full review's worth. We still think it's the natural upgrade to the Kobra Max 2, and if you're looking for an absolutely massive printer that can print multi-color at a resoanble price the Kobra 3 Max is a great choice.
What I like:
Anycubic's reputation for dead-simple printers that are not prohibitively expensive scales well to its updated Kobra 2 Max. This machine makes any large printing job a mostly set-and-forget affair. However, its sheer size requires some consideration. This bed-slinger comes with powerful motors to maintain speed with the massive build plate, which caused even the sturdiest table in my workshop to wobble. The gyroscope in the print head helps combat most of this, but if you're printing something especially tall, be prepared for some imperfections.
And like any Anycubic printer, the software is nowhere near as sophisticated as its more expensive competitors. As long as you're right with those minor compromises, you'll get a lot of great prints out of this machine.
Who should get it:
The Kobra Max series is for making massive prints for cosplays or large displays. It's a nice product and such, but not for everyone. If you're looking to make full-scale chest pieces for your cosplay or statues for your garden, the Kobra Max is an excellent choice.
Who should avoid it:
These huge printers are not for the faint of heart. They can often go wrong as they are large and ungainly. Only buy a machine this big if you need to make large things, not lots of things. It's better to use a fast, smaller machine for multiple small prints.
Pros
- Great price for a CoreXY printer of this caliber
- Great quality prints from both the Pro and standard 5M though it struggled on the tolerance test
- Excellent networking through the software makes it a great choice for education or print farming
Cons
- Having the spool holder on the back makes changing your filament frustrating, especially on a shelving rack
What I like:
The Adventurer 5M and the 5M Pro are two excellent 3D printers from Flashforge. They aren't fancy, and you can see they take heavy influence from the P series from Bambu Lab -- but what they do, they do well, and they do it at an enticing price. A solid CoreXY printer that can print dependably at 300mm/s is not to be sniffed at, and one that's reasonably priced is well worth your time. I especially like the Flashprint software that allows you to network several printers at the same time effortlessly.
The CNET test print from both the 5M and 5M Pro did a good job, but they weren't mind-blowing. There was a lot of stringing, and the tolerance test was not the best, but there was no ringing. The overhangs and bridges were excellent, too, so we know the cooling fan is doing its job there. I did notice that the build plates were a little slippy and I had a few prints fail until I started using the best 3D printing accessory, hairspray.
Who should get it:
I really like the Adventurer 5M Pro for schools. It's simple to use, simple to repair and enclosed to keep little fingers out of harm's way. The software makes it very easy to control multiple machines at once so it's easy to keep an eye on a bunch of them around the school.
Who should avoid it:
If you're looking for a color system with your cool new printer, then the Flashforge is not for you. But for most beginners, it's a good jumping off point.
Pros
- Small physical footprint makes it easy to set up, even in a small workspace with a wash and dry station
- Astounding quality for a small printer with zero layer lines visible on every print
- Great price to get you started in the world of resin printing
Cons
- It might be too small for a lot of projects. It's great for minis, though
What I like:
Resin printers are the next step up in rapid prototyping design technology when you want your printing to look as high-quality as possible. Just be warned: Liquid resin is harder to work with, requiring good ventilation and a portable UV light to cure properly. D&D miniatures work perfectly on a resin printer like this, and I recommend this one to start making your own minis.
The Photon Mono 2 is an older model now; they update them so fast, and the Mono 4 is now the obvious update. I haven't used it, but I know that it will be as good as the Mono 2, if not better. IT's also cheaper than the older model. It has a sharp 10k screen, giving much better details, and the build plate is laser-etched to hold the model where it needs to be.
Who should get it:
The Mono 2 (or the Mono 4) is perfect for someone who wants to make a lot of Dungeons and Dragons miniatures or small pieces of jewelry. The 10k screen offers up exquisite details at a cost that is hard to beat.
Who should avoid it:
Resin is toxic and shouldn't be used by young children or in spaces that don't have good ventilation. Its toxicity is also chronic, so it gets worse over time. If you do decide to buy one, make sure you're using all available protective equipment.
Purchasing your first 3D printer can be nerve-wracking, but we're here to help. There are a few main areas that you should consider when choosing the best 3D printer, and we have them covered here.
Should I wait for a deal to buy a 3D printer?
3D printers are often available throughout the year at a discount price. Special days like Prime Day, Black Friday and Cyber Monday are great occasions to pick yourself up a new machine, but there are still plenty of deals to be had throughout the year. Make sure you stay fluid and choose your 3D printer deal based on the availability of the machine and what your research has told you is the best.
What am I 3D printing?
When deciding on what 3D printer to buy, you first have to know what type of things you want to print. Resin 3D printing is good for highly detailed models such as character busts, dental work or tabletop miniatures. Even jewelry can be made using a resin 3D printer.
For almost every other application, an FDM (aka filament) 3D printer, is likely the best choice. Filament 3D printing is versatile in the types of material you can use and offers much larger build volumes to work on models. Cosplay armor and helmets, practical parts and large-scale models are best printed on an FDM printer.
Read more: What Is 3D Printing?
What is build volume?
Build volume is the amount of space a printer has to produce a model. Often calculated in millimeters cubed, it is the combination of the width, height and depth that your printer's nozzle can reach. This is not always the same as the internal volume of a 3D printer because the wiring and other mechanical parts can get in the way of the nozzle, reducing the area available.
Most FDM printers have a build area of around 220 by 220 by 250mm, although some of the best 3D printers have larger areas, while a few of the best budget 3D printers have smaller ones. I think the 220 by 220mm build plate is a good size for starting out, as it has room for large, practical pieces or several smaller models at once.
Testing 3D printers is an in-depth process. Printers often don't use the same materials, or even the same process to create models. I test SLA, 3D printers that use resin and light to print, and FDM, printers that melt plastic onto a plate. Each has a unique methodology. Core qualifiers I look at include:
- Hardware quality
- Ease of setup
- Bundled software
- Appearance and accuracy of prints
- Repairability
- Company and community support
A key test print, representing the (now old) CNET logo, is used to assess how a printer bridges gaps, creates accurate shapes, and handles overhangs. It even has little towers to help measure how well the 3D printer handles temperature ranges.
When testing speed, we slice the model using the standard slicer the machine is shipped with on its standard settings and then compare the real-world duration of the print to the statement completion time on the slicer. 3D printers often use different slicers, and those slicers can vary wildly on what they believe the completion time to be.
We then use PrusaSlicer to determine how much material the print should use and divide that number by the real-world time it took to print, giving us a more accurate number for the speed in millimeters per second (mm/s) that the printer can run at.
Every build plate is supposed to heat up to a certain temperature, so we use the InfiRay thermal imaging camera for Android to check how well they do. We set the build plate to 60 degrees Celsius -- the most used temperature for build plates -- waited five minutes for the temperature to stabilize, and then measured it in six separate locations. We then took the average temperature to see how close the 3D printer got to the advertised temperature.
Testing resin requires different criteria, so I use the Ameralabs standard test: printing out a small resin model that looks like a tiny town. This helps determine how accurate the printer is, how it deals with small parts and how well the UV exposure works at different points in the model.
Many other anecdotal test prints, using different 3D models, are also run on each printer to test the longevity of the parts and how well the machine copes with various shapes.
For the other criteria, I researched the company to see how well it responds to support queries from customers and how easy it is to order replacement parts and install them yourself. Kits (printers that come only semi-assembled) are judged by how long and difficult the assembly process is and how clear the instructions are.
What material should I use to print with?
Most home 3D printers use PLA or ABS plastic. Professional printers can use all sorts of materials, from metal to organic filament. Some printers use a liquid resin, which is much more difficult to handle. As a beginner, use PLA. It's non-toxic, made mostly of cornstarch and sugarcane, handles easily and is inexpensive. It's more sensitive to heat, so don't leave your 3D prints on the dashboard of a car on a hot day.
For a more detailed explanation of the different materials, check out our best filament article.
Which brand of PLA is best?
What brand is best will depend on the job you're trying to do. If you want to print something that looks amazing with no post-processing, Polylite from Polymaker is a great choice, with a large range of colors and finishes.
If you're printing something that's going to be sanded and painted, like cosplay armor, I would go with MatterHackers Build PLA. It's easy to sand, holds paint well and is cheaper the more you buy.
What settings should I use?
Most 3D printers include or link to recommended software, which can handle converting 3D STL or other files into formats supported by the printer. Stick with the suggested presets to start, with one exception. I've started adding a raft, or bottom layer of filament, to nearly everything I print. It has cut down dramatically on prints that don't adhere to the bed properly, which is a common issue. If you continue to have problems, rub a standard glue stick on the print bed right before printing.
Your 3D models probably need some help to print properly, as these printers don't do well with big overhangs. For example, an arm sticking out from a figure. Your 3D printer software can usually automatically calculate and add supports, meaning little stands that hold up all those sticking-out parts of the model. After the print is done, clip the supports off with micro cutters and file down any nubs or rough edges with hobby files.
Where do I find things to print?
Thingiverse.com is a huge online repository of 3D files for anything and everything you can think of. Pokemon chess set? It's there. Dyson vacuum wall mount? You bet.
You can also try Printables.com for the latest models. Printables uses a gamified reward system that can earn you free filament just for uploading pictures of the things you make.
When you're ready to create your own designs, there are a ton of software packages to choose from, but it's easiest to start with the browser-based free TinkerCad app from Autodesk.